Entertaining your Rabbit

Canning lids are a favorite toy around here.

Canning lids are a favorite toy around here.

Many rabbit owners give their rabbits toys to play with – but it’s not necessary to spend tons of money on toys to keep your rabbit entertained.

 

Rabbits will play with anything from wiffle balls to golf balls and bells but are equally happy with bits of untreated 2×4 or sheet rock that doubles as a resting board. Natural options include apple wood and willow tree twigs, and pine cones. Baby teething toys like plastic key sets or evenshower curtain rings provide satisfactory noises when thrown around their home.

 

Toilet paper tubes, empty tissue boxes stuffed with hay, empty oatmeal containers, or boxes give rabbits lots of entertainment.

 

We’ve recently discovered the metal rings for canning jars are great toys for the rabbits. They’re metal and clang when tossed, plus we can put them in the dishwasher to sanitize and clean them up without ruining them!

 

IMG_4495

 

What do you give your rabbits as toys?

 

Moon Phase Rabbit Breeding

Krappweis / stock.xchng

Krappweis / stock.xchng

I don’t know about you, but I tend to check the Farmer’s Almanac before major surgeries like getting wisdom teeth extracted and when the winter weather map came out I pretty much decided it was gospel and made my plans accordingly.

I don’t have the slightest idea how the Farmer’s Almanac comes up with the stuff they print, but it seems to be proven over the course of time. To be honest, I don’t even read my personal horoscope, so it’s kind of strange that I’ll put stock in something that seems, well… hokey. I am most certainly a skeptic.

Along those same lines are the myths about breeding rabbits according to the moon cycle. There are people who swear they can predict the number of bucks and does born in a litter, the number of show rabbits, and various other items based on breeding their mama do on the waning and waxing, new and full moons.

And then there are those who say, “It’s a rabbit. Stop making it so complicated.”

I fall somewhere in between. Obviously there’s some truth to the idea or it wouldn’t persist… but it doesn’t have the trappings of the scientific method to quantify and qualify the hypothesis. After talking with obstetricians I’ve learned that hospitals typically expect a rush on their labor and delivery departments during a full moon; so whether proven or not, something must make sense about the moon cycle’s affect on the fertility process!

From personal experience I can say we typically breed according to a Breeding Calendar. I’ve discovered when I follow this schedule my does are usually perfectly happy to lift and accommodate the bucks… without it I usually see disinterest or downright menace!

Several of these sites suggest breeding on a new moon to have a doe-heavy litter and a full moon for buck-heavy litters. Farther than that, there’s a belief that moon phases can influence the quality of the litter. Here’s a snapshot I’ve learned from other sites:

Possible Outcomes when Breeding Rabbits by Zodiac Signs

Possible Outcomes when Breeding Rabbits by Zodiac Signs

So the idea would be to choose which outcome you want (i.e., best quality does), then check the moon phase, and breed your mama doe in that zodiac period during a fertile moon phase and, whammo!, you’ve taken control of a completely uncontrollable process! Ha!

Note – if this worked so scientifically, everyone would do it.. but when I asked other rabbit breeders to give me the birth dates of their best rabbits, every one of the initial 10 responders fit the above graphic!

I suppose the bigger question is: Why do we even care whether we have bucks or does? I heard one person say that more bucks being born was a sign of a hard winter to come. Others try to breed for specific genders so their prospects at large shows are better.

Interesting, huh? It’s an idea each person needs to decide independently, but if you have personal experiences that either prove or disprove these breeding methods, I’d love to hear them in the comments! We will continue to breed based on the calendar, and if I get my act together enough maybe I’ll do some comparisons for gender and litter size in the future.

In the mean time, here are some links I’ve found helpful when educating myself on this topic:

Moon Phase and Gender (via Courtney McCullough’s 2012 California State Science Fair Project) – Results: “The results of the data showed a distinct trend toward a correct hypothesis (that more does would be born if bred during the full moon and more bucks would be born from a litter bred during the new moon). The total number of kits born was 108, with 57 bucks and 51 does born, a typical percentage one might expect; however, during the full moon, there were 7 bucks and 25 does born, and during the new moon, 29 bucks and 9 does were born. When breeding in the middle of the moon phases, there were 21 bucks and 17 does.”

Moon Phase and Litter Size (via Natalie Davis’ 2010 California State Science Fair Project) – Results: “Over 300 individual litters indicated that rabbits bred during a full moon phase had an average of more kits (3.2 kits), than rabbits bred during a new moon or a waxing/waning moon phase (2.8 and 2.7 kits).”

Rabbit Breeding and Moon Phases (via ThreeLittleLadies) – information posted is from 2006 but provides a framework someone with skill in knowing the zodiac and moon phases could recreate fairly easily.

2013 Breeding Calendar (via BunnyRabbit.com) – We use this calendar to plan our litters

2014 Breeding Calendar (via BunnyRabbit.com)

2015 Breeding Calendar (via BunnyRabbit.com)

2016 Breeding Calendar (via BunnyRabbit.com)

2017 Breeding Calendar (via BunnyRabbit.com)

2018 Breeding Calendar (via BunnyRabbit.com)

2019 Breeding Calendar (via BunnyRabbit.com)

2020 Breeding Calendar (via BunnyRabbit.com)

How To Tell Your Kids What’s For Dinner

Meat processing may not be the oldest activity in creation, but it's close!

Meat processing may not be the oldest activity in creation, but it’s close!

When we began raising rabbits it was to provide an organic meat source for our family. We did a lot of research and discovered rabbit meat is one of the healthiest meats around, rabbits are easy to raise and relatively inexpensive, and they are quiet, making them an ideal choice for our vaguely-urban neighborhood.

 

Even though it was a logical choice for us, the reality of having children is that what makes sense to an adult is not always sensible to a young one! Many people have asked us how our children react to knowing we’re having rabbit for dinner so this seems like a good place to address their questions.

 

Our major philosophy with butchering (and life!) is to be honest with our kids, answer any questions they have, invite them to participate as much as they would like (but never force them!), and to share our reasoning and the struggles we have with the process.

 

Make no mistake, taking life in any form is significant to us and not something we do lightly. I’m been known to apologize to an apple tree for picking an apple! (Yep, I know this is strange but it’s how I roll!) Knowing we have a reasoning and thought process behind it makes a huge difference for us.

 

I’ve found this article (Kids and Farming: How To Tell Your Children Which Animal Is For Dinner) has some great tips on preparing your children for livestock processing. They do a good job of giving pointers on how to work with your children through what some might consider a disturbing event.

 

Our children have had lots of question but in general are really unconcerned about eating animals we’ve raised. When I announce we’re having rabbit enchurittos for dinner, rejoicing is heard throughout the land! Ha!

 

Every child is different and each family needs to find their own comfort level, but here are a few things that have worked for our children as we discuss raising rabbits as livestock rather than pets:

 

1. Every rabbit has a purpose. We watched a movie called Hugo a while ago and I fell in love with the main premise behind the film: that everything is created to fulfill a purpose and bringing that purpose to fruition is a thing of beauty! On a basic, biological level, rabbits were created as food for others. This is why they reproduce so quickly, have such short gestation periods, and are relatively unintelligent, small, and nutritious. Though they can fulfill multiple purposes, perhaps as a breeding animal for stunning show stock or as a companion for a human, at their basic level they are prey. Allowing them to complete their function is a thing of beauty in the same way humans can fill different roles, perhaps as a mother, or lawyer, doctor, or garbage collector. Every thing has a role to play!

 

2. Rabbits are an object lesson. We encourage our children to a part of the harvesting process much as they would like. While processing we use our rabbits as hands-on learning; we take care to identify the different elements of anatomy, recognize what healthy animals look like or what we might see if an animal were sick; we talk with our kids about the food we feed the rabbits and why protein content in a pellet matters, about how access to hay enhances a rabbit’s life, and what methods of taking life are honorable, fast, and painless. There are so very many subjects that come up from an educational standpoint if you talk honestly with your kids about your motives and how every piece of this life puzzle fits together, plus this provides a fall back plan for them in the event of a major lifestyle change. Has anyone seen Hunger Games?!

 

3. Our meat shouldn’t come on a styrofoam container. While grocery stores are convenient and I visit one (or two!) on a weekly basis, we want our children to understand that milk doesn’t come in plastic jugs and meat isn’t naturally served up on a styrofoam container. Most people in the U.S. are one-to-two generations removed from a food-producing farm and we’ve forgotten that we are dependent upon nature and hard work to provide the food we need to survive. As parents, we talk with our children about farming and our commitment to providing for our own needs in as wholesome and healthy way as we have available.

 

4. We adopt an attitude of gratitude. We have willingly entered into a symbiotic relationship with our livestock. It is our responsibility to care for the rabbits in the best way we know how and we take our stewardship very seriously. We always talk with our children about how thankful we are that these rabbits are able to meet one of our foundational needs — to eat — and do not take the responsibility we have to the animals lightly.

 

5. Practical Anonymity. When it’s all said and done, no matter how much you talk to someone about the big picture and philosophy behind raising your own food, no one wants to know it’s Mr. Binkles on the dinner plate! From a practical standpoint, we won’t name rabbits unless we intend to keep them for a good while and we typically process and freeze the meat under the generic “rabbit” term for long enough that we can’t remember who was whom!

 

While this is a far from exhaustive list, I hope it provides a spring board for your own discussions with kiddos about livestock and food and our roles as consumers in this world.

 

 

 

Get the Blues

A few drops of blue food coloring per gallon of water has inhibited algae growth in our water bottles.

A few drops of blue food coloring per gallon of water has inhibited algae growth in our water bottles.

Until we have an automatic watering system we will be best friends with our flip-lid water bottles. I love these bottles and especially the flip top lids – it takes so much less time than unscrewing the nozzle of each bottle to fill with water!

One thing I DO NOT love about water bottles is that they can get “ew!”-stuff inside of them – algae, moths, dirt, etc.

Earlier this year I complained about this at the feed store and one of the workers suggested putting blue food coloring in the water. She told me the blue coloring would inhibit the growth of mossy-type things in the water bottles.

We tried putting 1-2 drops of blue food coloring per gallon of water for months and didn’t think much of it, it was under the category of “can’t hurt, might as well try.” We saw only minimal algae growth over the following months. When we ran out of blue food coloring we tried green for about a week – but that actually seemed to encourage growth in the bottles!

When it was all said and done, space was at a premium I was being cheap. I didn’t want to buy all the other colors of food coloring from the box of four colors I could buy at the grocery and only use the blue, so we finally just gave up on it and for several weeks we haven’t put anything but our normal Apple Cider Vinegar in the water.

Granted, it’s summer time and our bottles spend a few hours a day in direct sunlight, but the algae growth has been impressive! I could scrub those bottles every other day and they’d still not be clean. (If only I could figure a way to market algae – we have been able to produce it!)

Last week after examining the cuts on my hands from scrubbing the bottles – yet again – I broke down and ordered blue food coloring off of Amazon. It arrived yesterday and I’ve been happily dripping the coloring in the water again. I have no scientific proof that this works, but from our real-life assessment, a few drops of blue could be what you need to fight the algae growth in your water bottles, too!

Gardening and Composting with Bunny Berries

Bunny Berries are excellent for reuse in gardens.

Bunny Berries are excellent for repurposing in gardens.

There’s  no poop that works as well for the garden as rabbit poop. It has all the uber-benefits of horse and steer manure but with a distinct advantage: because it’s considered a “cold” manure, you don’t have to let rabbit poop age or compost before you use it. Other manures that come from chickens, sheep, horse, cows, and pigs or “hot” manures, need to be composted for months before you can safely use them or you’ll burn your plants to death. Not so with rabbit poop.

Rabbit manure is packed with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and many minerals, lots of micro-nutrients, plus many other beneficial trace elements such as calcium, magnesium, boron, zinc, manganese, sulfur, copper, and cobalt just to name a few.

N – P – K VALUES 

Rabbit 2.4 -1.4 -.60

Chicken 1.1-.80-.50

Sheep .70-.30-.60

Horse .70-.30-.60

Steer .70-.30-.40

Dairy Cow .25-.15-.25

As you can see the nutrient values of farm manures and how they measure up and rabbit manure really shines! Rabbit manure also doesn’t smell as strong as other manures making it easy to use.

Grab a handful and spread it all over the garden or fold it into the soil. It’s like time release capsules, as the pellets don’t completely break down right away. It’s slow-release thing.

As they break down, they build your soil’s structure, improve the porosity, add stability, and hold nutrients for plants as well as other organisms in the soil.

Another great way to take advantage of rabbit pellets and all their growing goodness is to make “bunny brew” or rabbit compost tea. Find a five gallon bucket, and a large scoop of rabbit pellets and drop them into the bucket. Give it a good stir every now and again for a day or two.

Let the manure settle and use the tea at the top of the bucket to water your plants. You can dump the remaining manure at the bottom of the bucket onto your compost pile (no waste here). Of course, the proper English way would be to use a big piece of muslin or burlap and make a big tea bag and let it dangle into the bucket!

If I gave you an earful on the virtues of rabbit poop in the garden, then you have to know that this goes double for the compost pile. With even a small pail of rabbit poop every once in a while, you’ll be in nitrogen heaven as far as composting goes. Bunny gold is nitrogen on steroids; it really gets a pile going.

Thanks to The Vegetable Gardener and Rise and Shine Rabbitry for this insight!

Toxic and Poisonous Plants for Rabbits

I have just spent more than an hour searching for the infographic that shares which green things are most certainly inedible for rabbits and come up empty handed.

 

Because I never want to go through this again, I’ll simply post what I have found about the naturally occuring substances our rabbits should not consume. This particular list is courtesy of Adoptarabbit.com:

 

Toxic Plants


Following is a partial list of plants that rabbits should not eat. This list is a compilation of lists from various sources.

 

  • Where available, the parts of the plants to be avoided are included enclosed in parentheses.
  • The exclusion of a specific plant from this list does not indicate that the plant is safe. For a list of fruits and vegetables suitable for rabbit comsumption, please see our ABC’s of Rabbit Safe Vegetables and Fruits.
  • Plants commonly known by more than one name may occur multiple times in the list.
  • If you suspect your rabbit has ingested an unsafe plant, please call your vet and/or your local poison control center or the National Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435 (credit card charge).
  • For more information, please see our links at the bottom of this page.

 

A B C D E F G H I
J K L M N O P Q R
S T U V W X Y Z

A
Agave (leaves)
Almond
Aloe
Amaryllis (bulbs)
Andromeda
Anemone
Angel’s Trumpet
Apple (seeds)
Apricot (all parts except fruit)
Asian Lilly
Asparagus Fern
Australian Nut
Autumn Crocus
Avacado (leaves)
Azalea (leaves)
B
Balsam pear (seeds, outer rind of fruit)
Baneberry (berries, roots)
Barbados Lilly
Begonia
Betel-nut Palm
Bird of Paradise (seeds)
Bitter Cherry (seeds)
Bittersweet (American & European)
Black Nightshade
Black Walnut (hulls)
Bloodroot
Bluebonnet
Boston Ivy
Buddhist Pine
Busy Lizzie
Buttercup (leaves)
Black Locust (seeds,bark, sprouts, foliage)
Blue-green algae (some forms toxic)
Bloodroot
Boxwood (leaves,twigs)
Bracken fern
Branching Ivy
Buckeye (seeds)
Buckthorn (berries, fruit, bark)
Bull Nettle
Buttercup (sap, bulbs)
C
Cactus Thorn
Caladium
Calendula
Calico Bush
Calla Lilly (rhizome, leaves)
Caladiur (leaves)
Carnation
Carolina Jessamine
Castor Bean (seed, leaves – castor oil)
Celastrus
Ceriman
Chalice vine (all parts)
Cherry tree (bark, twig, leaves, pits)
China Doll
Chinaberry tree
Chinese Bellflower
Chinese Lantern
Chinese Evergreen
Choke Cherry (seeds)
Christmas Candle (sap)
Christmas Rose
Chrysanthemum
Cineraria
Clematis
Climbing Nightshade
Clivia (a.k.a Kaffir Lily)
Coffee Bean
Cone Flower
Coral plant (seeds)
Cordatum
Corn Plant
Cowbane
Cowslip
Crown of Thorns
Cuban Laurel
Cuckoopint (all parts)
Cutleaf Philodendron
Cycads
Cyclamen
D
Daffodil (bulbs)
Daisy
Daphne (berries, bark)
Datura (berries)
Day Lily
Deadly Amanita (all parts)
Deadly Nightshade
Death Camas (all parts)
Delphinium (all parts)
Devil’s Ivy
Dieffenbachia (leaves)
Dogbane
Dracaena
Dumb Cane
Dutchman’s Breeches
E
Easter Lilly
Eggplant (all but fruit)
Elderberry (unripe berries, roots, stems)
Elephant Ear (leaves, stem)
Emerald Feather
English Laurel
English Ivy (berries, leaves)
Eucalyptus
F
False Hellebore
False Henbane (all parts)
False Parsley
Fiddle Leaf Fig
Fireweed
Flamingo Plant
Florida Beauty
Flowering Maple
Flowering Tobacco
Foxglove (leaves, seeds)
G
Garden Sorrel
Geranium
German Ivy
Ghostweed (all parts)
Giant Touch-me-not
Glacier Ivy
Gladiola
Glory Lilly
Gold Dust
Golden Chain (all parts)
Golden Pothos
Green Gold
H
Hahn’s Ivy
Hairy Vetch
Hart Ivy
Hawaiian Ti
Heartleaf Philodendron
Heavenly Bamboo
Hemlock, Poison (all parts)
Hemlock, Water (all parts)
Henbane (seeds)
Hogwart
Holly (berries)
Horse Chestnut (nuts, twigs)
Horsehead Philodendron
Horsetail Reed
Hurricane Plant
Hyacinth (bulbs)
Hydrangea
I
Impatiens
Indian Hemp
Indian Rubber
Indian Turnip (all parts)
Indigo
Inkberry
Iris (bulbs)
Ivy, Boston & English (berries, leaves)
J
Jack-in-the-Pulpit (all parts)
Japanese Euonymus
Japanese Show Lily
Japanese Yew
Jasmine
Java Bean (uncooked bean)
Jerusalem Cherry (berries)
Jessamine
Jimson Weed (leaves, seeds)
Johnson Grass
Jonquil
Juniper (needles, stems, berries)
L
Laburnum (all parts)
Lace Fern
Lacy Tree Philodendron
Lady Slipper
Lantana (immature berries)
Larkspur (all parts)
Laurel (all parts)
Laurel Cherry
Lily of the Valley (all parts)
Lima Bean (uncooked bean)
Lobelia (all parts)
Locoweed (all parts)
Lords and Ladies (all parts)
Lupine
M
Macadamia Nut
Madagascar Dragon Tree
Manchineel Tree
Marbel Queen
Marijuana (leaves)
Marsh Marigold
Mauna Loa Peace Lily
Mayapple (all parts except fruit)
Meadow Saffron
Medicine Plant
Mesquite
Mexican Breadfruit
Mescal Bean (seeds)
Milk Bush
Milkweed
Mistletoe (berries)
Mock Orange (fruit)
Monkshood (leaves, roots)
Moonflower
Morning Glory (all parts)
Mother-in-law
Mountain Laurel
Mushrooms (some)
Mustard (root)
N
Nandina
Narcissus (bulbs)
Needlepoint Ivy
Nephtytis
Nicotiana
Nightshades (berries, leaves)
Nutmeg
O
Oak (acorns, foliage) Oleander (leaves, branches, nectar) Oxalis
P
Panda
Parlor Ivy
Parsnip
Patience Plant
Peace Lily
Peach (leaves, twigs, seeds)
Pear (seeds)
Pencil Cactus
Peony
Periwinkle
Peyote
Philodendron (leaves, stem)
Plum (seeds)
Plumosa Fern
Poinsettia (leaves, flowers)
Poison Hemlock
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Poison sumac
Pokeweed
Poppy
Potato (eyes & new shoots, green parts)
Precatory Bean
Primrose
Primula
Privet (all parts)
Purple Thornapple
Q
Queensland Nut
R
Ranunculus
Red Emerald
Red Lily
Red Princess
Rhododendron (all parts)
Rhubarb (leaves)
Ribbon Plant
Ripple Ivy
Rosary Pea (seeds)
Rubrum Lily
S
Sago Palm
Schefflera
Self-branching Ivy
Sennabean
Shamrock Plant
Silver Pothos
Skunk Cabbage (all parts)
Snake Palm
Snowdrop (all parts)
Snow-on-the-Mountain (all parts)
Solomon’s Seal
Spindleberry
Split Leaf Philodendron
Star of Bethlehem
Stinkweed
String of Pearls
Sweet Pea (seeds and fruit)
Sweet Potato
Sweetheart Ivy
Swiss Cheese Plant
T
Tansy
Taro Vine
Thornapple
Tiger Lily
Toadstools
Tobacco (leaves)
Tomato (leaves, vines)
Tree Philodendron
Tulip (bulb)
U
Umbrella Plant
V
Vetch (Hairy)
Vinca
Violet (seeds) Virginia Creeper (berries, sap)
W
Walnuts (hulls, green shells)
Water Hemlock
Weeping Fig
Western Lily
Wild Carrots
Wild Cucumber
Wild Parsnip
Wild Peas
Wisteria (all parts)
Wood Lily
Wood-rose
Y
Yam Bean (roots, immature pods) Yellow Jasmine Yew (needles, seeds, berries)
Yucca

For more information…
University of Illinois Toxic Plants Database
ASPCA Poison Control Center
San Diego chapter of HRS Poisonous Plants Page

 

If you can’t keep it in your pants… at least keep it in the family.

Occasionally there's just something a little... off... about a pairing.

Occasionally there’s just something a little… off… about a pairing.

We went to several family reunions this summer and, truth be told, our 5-year-old daughter developed a bit of a crush on one of her cousins.

I overheard the 7-year-old talking to her about this crush: “You can’t marry him! He’s our cousin! If you get married your kids will have two heads and three eyes!”

Yep. We’ve talked about the dangers of inbreeding our family. As a practice for human beings we are 100% against it.

But rabbits are a different story.

When you’re thinking about how to get the healthiest herd with the least amount of animals, there’s no doubt you have to consider how closely related you want your rabbits to be over the long haul.

We have worked pretty hard to get unrelated animals to start our herd, importing bloodlines from all over the United States. That being said, we’re planning on sticking with these animals and their offspring until we have a very solid “Mad Hatter Rabbit” stamp on any animal that comes from our barn.

The Domestic Rabbits publication by ARBA had a great article about the differences between inbreeding (breeding siblings) and line breeding (breeding father/daughter, mother/son, grandparent/grandchild, etc.). Most of the top breeders utilize line breeding regularly to “stamp in” the breed characteristics they find most desirable.  Additionally, traditional wisdom says if you get a brother/sister pair, produce one mating out of that pair (inbreed) and from that point forward switch to line breeding and you won’t run into problems.

I spoke with a friend who is a geneticist and his experience confirms this philosophy. He told me in scientific studies researchers have deliberately inbred their rabbits, trying to get the most genetically similar test subjects possible. It was only after 18+ generations the researchers began to see problems like malocclusion (wolf teeth), compromised immune systems (sickly rabbits), and other common problems associated with inbreeding.

We have personally bred a brother/sister combination of rabbits that we knew nothing of the genetic history about. The litter produced wolf teeth and poor immunity and we ended up culling it from the breeding program and vowing to never repeat that breeding. But remember – we didn’t have a pedigree on that pair and have no idea how many times their ancestors were inbred before they got to us!

This is another reason it makes sense to spring for a pedigreed rabbit when purchasing stock. In one case we found rabbits from different states but after looking over the pedigrees I discovered the rabbit was related identically to our other rabbit after two generations back! We were able to make an informed decision about whether we wanted that rabbit in our herd.

Typically line breeding makes the good stuff you’re seeing in your rabbit better and the bad stuff worse. It’s like getting a double stuff Oreo – augmenting the genetic qualities with potentially awesome or disastrous results.

Here’s a graphic that might make the idea of line breeding a bit more understandable:

line breeding / inbreeding / outcrossing chart

line breeding / inbreeding / outcrossing chart

Ultimately every breeder must make the decision they feel is best for their herd regarding how tightly they breed their rabbits. We do practice line breeding with moderation and willingness to cull hard if a poor pairing appears. With our Astrex program we must do tight breeding to a certain extent to try to isolate and reinforce the curly gene – while always keeping the health of the rabbit in mind.

Fascinating stuff, huh?!

Blanc de Hotot!

20130820-193027.jpg

We are so excited to welcome Blanc de Hotot to our Rabbitry!

Our friend, Lisa, of Trinity Hallow, lured us into the breed by exposing us to some beautiful rabbits. Then my mom decided she likes Hotot (pronounced oh-toe) and my kids started begging for “mascara bunnies” and we ended up with the number one rare breed in the U.S. camped out in our back yard!

We alternate between calling these guys “mascara bunnies” and “rock stars” but there’s no doubt they have explosive personalities and a certain je ne sais quoi about them. (I start using French phrases when talking about French bunnies. He he!)

It will be a few months before we have any Hotot babies and it will be a new challenge to get show marked rabbits without any random black spots (Blancs are genetically black rabbits with a Big White Spot), but we’re looking forward to the experience!

County Fair

kyslesmith / stock.xchng

kyslesmith / stock.xchng

I’m in a quandry about the county fair and how we should participate.

You see, I want to participate. We’re raising some fairly unusual breeds for the area and showing our rabbits at the fair will give them plenty of exposure and possible help new people fall in love with the breeds, which can only help in the long run.

But… there are so many people at the fair and I have a vision of children poking cotton candy sticks through the wire of the cages and temperatures soaring up and away…

I’d love to hear if any of you have any experiences of entering your rabbits in the county fair and what recommendations you might have for us?

Rabbit Road Trips

Transporting Rabbits

Transporting Rabbits

I took a rabbit roadtrip to meet another breeder and pick up some rabbits. We have 8 1/2 hours between us so it was a decent undertaking to meet in the middle, especially considering we are both the primary care takers for our family.

 

The time driving gave me a chance to think about the logistics of transporting rabbits, however.

 

Rabbits move quite a bit around the country – more than I realized when I started this hobby. Most travel is by vehicle, although there are a few airlines who allow rabbits to be shipped.

 

Our rabbitry is living proof of how rabbits travel. We have rabbits from Michigan, Georgia, Indian, Washington, Texas, New Mexico, and Ohio here at our little Arizona rabbitry! This is partially because we have some of the more rare breeds and had to do some footwork to get them here, but I’ve been very impressed with how far rabbits move!

 

Many times people who are attending shows are willing to drive  a rabbit with them for a charge of anywhere from $10 to $50. A $10 transport is likely only a few hours, a $50 transport fee will usually include a multi-day caretaking project. There is no set rule book for transporting or Rabbit Relay Guild – but if you ask around you can usually find someone trustworthy who will be willing to let your rabbit hitch a ride for a fee that helps them cover the cost of their own travel.

 

Because there is no standard, it’s important to ask questions before you confirm the transport:

 

  • How much will the transport cost?
  • Who will provide the carrier? You or the transporter?
  • What are the carrier dimensions? How about food and water dishes?
  • Should you send food with your rabbit(s)?
  • What responsibility does your carrier offer in picking up your rabbit? Checking tattoo for accuracy? Healthy check?
  • What responsibility does your transporter have if a rabbit gets sick during the journey? What if it dies?

 

If you’re transporting rabbits, make sure you have all of the above questions answered for each of your passengers, plus you might want to consider a few more items:

 

  • How much room do you have in your vehicle? Will that change based on carrier sizes?
  • Are you able to have rabbits in air conditioning at all times? In your hotel room (if traveling overnight)?
  • How are you organizing your transport? What is your double check that you have every rabbit you should and get it to the right owner?
  • Will you have time to deliver rabbits at a show?
  • How confident are you in your ability to see disqualification, wolf teeth, etc.?

 

We transported at the West Coast Classic this year (and have for a few short journey’s since then). It was an enjoyable, stressful experience for us. We’re definitely open to doing it again, but it was much more work than I initially expected and we had rabbits hanging out at our house for up to a month after WCC waiting for pick up.